Guide to hiking to the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves in Juneau, Alaska!

*** I added a video at the bottom! ***

Let me preface this article first with that I am by no means an expert!  I got lost a few times but eventually found my way.  I'm only writing this article as a tool to assist others in reaching the ice caves (though now melted).   You can read my article about the ices caves here.

If you're on this page, it's likely you've heard about or seen some photos of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves.  They're a sight to behold!  But being made of ice, they do eventually melt which is the point of time we are at now.  That said, it's still worth the effort to hike to the... guess we'll just call it the front of the glacier.  For future reference, I'll refer to the ice caves as the glacier.

Getting to the trailhead:

I'm going to assume you can read a map but the main thing is getting on the Mendenhall Loop Road.  As you may have guessed, this road is a giant loop and when viewed on a map, the turnoff is roughly at the top, a little northwest.  You need to turn onto Montana Creek Road and follow it all the way to the end.  It turns into Skaters Cabin Road so don't make any turns off of the road.  Skaters Cabin Road dead ends at the West Glacier Trailhead. 

There are bathrooms but no running water. The trail entrance is to the left of the bathrooms.  About 100 feet in, you will find a trailhead board with information as well as a link to the USFS Map of the area.  If you have a smartphone with internet service, I'd advise downloading some sort of tracking app so if you get lost, you can backtrack.  There's also the 1910 cairn Marker which means at this point, the glacier was right where you're standing in 1910.  There will be many of these throughout the area, mostly near the lake.  A cairn is a marker made of rocks.  Some are official with the ice limit makers while others are merely there to mark the route.  

Hiking the trail:

The first 1.3 miles is fairly easy.  A few inclines and towards the end, you have a few steep inclines that zig zag.  There are cable hand rails but still be careful.  You will eventually reach a fork.  The sign below is located to the left of the trail.  



West Glacier Trail/View Point Cairn Fork Mid June 2018

You have two options to get to the glacier.

The View Point Cairn Trail or the West Glacier Spur Trail. 

Both has advantages and disadvantages.  Looking at my GPS tracking log, they seem to be about the same length but the consensus is that the Cairn Trail is a bit shorter. 

West Glacier Trail:

First off, the West Glacier Trail goes on for quite a ways.  To the west of the glacier I'd imagine.  I missed the turnoff to the spur trail.  I'll come back to that in a minute.  Because I missed the spur, I ended up going up and up.  This however afforded me the nice view below. 



Mendenhall Glacier from West Glacier Trail Mid June 2018

I was well into the "ribbon" section, I'll come back to that too, when I realized I was not on the spur trail so I back tracked.  I remember there being an obvious marker and sign but this sign has since been removed.  I was an idiot and forgot to take a photo but if you're using a GPS app, the spur should be about 2.1 miles from the trailhead.  You'll reach a viewpoint with a large 5 foot high boulder on the left.  The trail goes to the left and up but you'll notice a primitive trail that continues straight.  This is the spur trail.  There used to be a sign but it has been removed.  You can see the 2 bolts that held the sign so you'll know you're at the right spot.  From this point on, you're in the "ribbon" section.  This trail is not official like the West Glacier Trail.  This trail has been marked by guides and is fairly easy to navigate.  There are these colored plastic ribbons that are usually tied to trees and branches. The next one is usually in sight of the last one unless the trail is pretty obvious but you shouldn't go more than 200 feet without seeing one.

From the fork, you'll be looking for 2 main landmarks.  The large boulder which has a rope to help you up and down and the wood plank that crosses a creek.  Provided you pass these, you're on the right track.  From the plank, the trail gets a bit squirrely.  A lot of large flat rocks.  As you near the glacier, you'll have less vegetation until you reach the final embankment which is literally just a slope of loose rocks and gravel.  At this point, the route ribbons will be tied to rocks on the ground.  You will be at times sliding down so be very careful.  When you arrive at the bottom, you'll notice another trail.  That is the View Point Cairn Trail. 

The Glacier:

The first thing you'll notice is that it's dirty.  Nobody comes and cleans the damn glacier!  Okay, that's mother nature for you.  As I mentioned, the famed ice caves are no more.  I have the photo below which was taken last year around late June and below that is the photo I took this trip, mid June 2018.

Mendenhall Ice Caves Late June 2017

Mendenhall Ice Caves Mid June 2018

As you can see in the bottom photo, the caves have melted and the entrances are blocked.  Do NOT attempt to go in!  But it's amazing what a year does to this glacier. 

You can explore the seam but be careful.  What looks like openings are just small pockets.  Are there caves in there?  Maybe.  New caves open from time to time.  But for now, it's just a glacier. 

It's my opinion that it's easier to take the West Glacier Trail Spur to the glacier and the View Point Cairn Trail back. 



Mendenhall Glacier from the View Point Cairn Trail Mid June 2018

View Point Cairn Trail:

From the glacier, it's a bit shifty.  Remember, this area was ALL under ice just a few years ago so little vegetation has grown.  As you start gradually ascending, there will be a spur trail to the left that leads to the lake.  This trail is mainly for kayakers and rafters who take the easy route.  Stay to the right and follow the ribbons.  You will pass many of the cairns (ice limit markers).  Maybe you'll find one with your birth year.  I did not.  There's a few 20 to 30 foot rock inclines you need to navigate.  Going back, you'll be going down.  Going to the glacier, you'll be climbing.  This route is a little more wet than the other route, at least this time around.  All in all, this trail stays close to the lake and at one point you'll be at the lake.  Then it goes up and up and up until you'll reach a USFS map sign like at the trailhead.  Go to the right and you'll intercept the main trail, then turn left to head back to the trailhead.

Map of hike:

Summary:

Is this hike worth it without the ice caves?  YES!  Even without the ice caves, it's still a beautiful, ever-changing piece of history that will not be here forever.  This is not a hike to do once but every time you visit Juneau.  While thousands and thousands visit the visitors center and nugget falls each day, very few actually get close enough to touch the glacier. 

Tips:

There are guides.  If you got the money, take one.  They also offer treks onto the glacier and when ice caves are available, into the caves. They provide all the necessary equipment. 

If you are stupid like me and go your own way, make sure you have the following:

Fully charged smart phone, ideally with 4G service.  Most cell phones do not have true GPS.  They still need the internet to download maps.  Download an app to track your route.  I used MapMyHike. 

Bring food and water.  At least 1 gallon per person and snacks that are high in protein.  Ideally, bring enough food for 2 meals.  If you get lost or stuck overnight, you'll need that food and water.

First Aid kit is a must

Bear spray is ideal but it's one of those things most tourists won't have because it's just a pain.  You can't take it on the plane so the likelihood you'll actually use it is low.  Check with your hotel or hostel.  They sometimes have loaners.

Layers of clothes, especially in the early and late seasons

Hard hat or helmet is good.  Good for cave exploration but also good for avoiding hitting your head on low branches. 

Gloves are great for grip and protection if you fall.  If you fall, chances are you'll land on your hands so gloves will save you from road rash. 

If you really want to get anal, you should have a paper map, a manual compass (or just a compass I guess), flash light, overnight survival gear, hiking boots and probably a few other things. 

Pay attention!  If you feel like you got off trail, especially in the ribbon section, STOP and backtrack to the last ribbon.  Carefully look for the next one.  Some are very small. 

Plan on at least 6 hours for an out and back trip.  It's roughly 3 miles each way. 

Summary again:

I hope this guide helps you and you read it before you head out, not when you're on the trail.  :)

Video:

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Attending my first furry convention (Midwest Furfest 2017)

Midwest Furfest Mac n Cheese in a dog bowl

Midwest Furfest Mac n Cheese in a dog bowl - They have chafing dishes!

First off, I was only able to attend on Friday which really sucked ass.  I had some other issues with work and had to fly back to Texas Saturday and ended up back in Chicago a few days later so it was a real mess.  But i'm glad I at least was able to make it for one day.  Luckily, they do sell daily passes at the door so it's an option if you just want to peek into the furry fandom.

I have been into the furry fandom for many years.  I think there are more furries out there than most people think.  Being that my mom lives in Chicago, I have certainly known about MFF for several years but was not like wanting to go to one until this year.  Certain life changes with work and other aspects have led me down a different path and now I want to explore my furry side for awhile.  I plan on selling some products I make so I really just needed a primer, just need to see what the cons were all about.

Coming from downtown, the Hyatt O'Hare is within a 5 minute walk from the CTA Blueline Rosemont stop.

I arrived about 15 after 11 am to an overwhelming amount of people.  Some in suits, some in quasi costumes like pajamas, hoodies with ears, others with just a tail and the people who looked like they were not part of the convention and were frightened to death.  Once I got inside, it took a few minutes to locate the day of registration line which I of course saw coming in.  It was long.  By the time I found the end of the line which was probably 300 deep, I was already giggling with glee.  It was so nice to see others who were into my "thing".

One of the big things is everyone seems to know everyone... except me, but that'll change one day!  You can't just help but smile every time you see people embrace or high five.  While many people attend many cons, a lot just know about the fandom from online sites such as furaffinity or just searching for random photos like "fursuit airport KFC".  You do not want to look at my search history.

The line moved slow, a few feet every so often.  It took 3 hours to get to the front of the line where I paid my dues and got my badge.  I finally felt like I belonged.  Having missed two panels I wanted to see, I headed over to the Starbucks in the convention center and had lunch.  I had not planned on being in line so long so I was starving.  I did attend one panel I was hoping to see.  It covered how to deal with the media which I find important.  There were only 9 or 10 people so I guess people were too busy partying or didn't find interest in the topic but it was nice to get away from the crowds for awhile.

After the panel, I headed to the dealer's den.  This was the main room I wanted to see so I could size up my competition.  Long story short, I'm good.  I'm currently working on getting into my first convention but I did not realize the lead time to register was so far out so it's likely that I won't get into one for a few months.

I'm not really into live music but for some reason, it seemed like fun.  There were two performances by apparently "well-known" musicians who are also furries. Again, really learned a lot.  i was bummed that they did not perform in costume... but I digress.  The first guy was Matthew Ebel who does piano rock and was quite entertaining.  It really gave me more insight into the people who love the fandom enough to create and perform.  That was followed by Fox and PepperCoyote who did great set with a full band.  Again, really enjoyed the lyrics and the backstories.

By the end of the music, it was pushing 9 pm.  I went to the lobby to grab a quick bite to eat.  There was a stand selling personal pizzas or mac n cheese in a dog bowl.  With my slight embarrassment of being at a fur con, I erred on the safe side and got the pizza however now I totally regret not just letting go and getting the mac n cheese.  Sure i can get that bowl at the dollartree, not that I was shopping for one, but I allowed myself to be tied up in societal convention and that will not happen again! I saw many people enjoying their meals out of their dog bowls.  Next time, it's already on my calendar.

I finished the night off at the dance.  I stayed off to the side but enjoyed seeing everyone let loose.  I think this kind of convention is great because it's one of those that people want to go to.  It's not one they have to go to for work.  I was pretty bummed leaving but am excited to go to more cons as an attendee and or dealer.

A snippet of the dance!

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How to volunteer for SXSW (South by Southwest) - What to know for first timers and returning volunteers!

SXSW 2017 Austin, Texas - Photo by Paul Clough

If you live in central Texas or are a big indie music or film fan, then you've probably heard of SXSW.

Even if you don't know much about it, if you live in Austin, you've probably dealt with the effects of SXSW like traffic, advertisements on every street and utility pole and the many copycat events.  I have volunteered for 3 years and LOVE it and want to share some of my observations and tips.

SXSW 2017 Austin, Texas - Photo by Paul Clough

Taking place starting the second week of March, SXSW takes over downtown Austin with film, interactive and music events.  There's also SXSW EDU which is for educators which runs right before the main SXSW.  EDU is not as large or as inundating and mainly takes place at the Austin Convention Center and a few surrounding hotel convention centers.  Most events are only available to badge holders (Platinum, Film, Interactive or Music) while some are available to wristbands (film and music).  But for everyone else, it's like peeking over the fence of the concert you've been dying to see.

SXSW 2017 Austin, Texas - Photo by Paul Clough

The large majority of SXSW attendees are industry professionals so the several hundred dollar badge fees are paid for by someone else.  But if you're an ordinary person, shelling out $500 to $1200 for a week of events might not make financial sense.  But have no fear!  SXSW depends on the hard work of thousands of volunteers each year and in exchange for their time, they can earn FREE badges.

SXSW 2017 Austin, Texas - Photo by Paul Clough

As a volunteer, you may be asked to work at a variety of events and locations throughout the downtown Austin area.  SXSW had over a dozen satellite locations for film and panels and over 100 music venues. There's also several free events to the general public.  It's not just the convention center!

SXSW 2017 Austin, Texas - Photo by Paul Clough

If you plan on volunteering, there are several things you should consider.

1.  Time commitment

As of 2018, the minimum volunteer hours is 24.

There are two types of volunteers.  All-Conference and Music Crew.  All-Conference crew volunteers must be at least 16 but some crews require 18 or 21 and older depending on where events take place.  All Music crew except for outside stage must be 21 as most events occur at bars that serve alcohol.

For All-Conference crews, you can earn the following badges:
SXSW EDU Badge requires at least 24 hours during SXSW EDU and the badge is only good for SXSW EDU events.
SXSW Interactive Badge, Film Badge or Music Badge requires at least 48 hours.  Each badge is good for primary access to the chosen badge and secondary access to other badged events.  IE A Film badge gets primary access to film events and secondary access to Music and Interactive events.
If you're a returning volunteer, you can earn a SXSW Platinum Badge which requires 64 or more hours.  You must have the blessing from a crew captain that you've worked with on previous years.  This can be done at either volunteer call.

All-Conference volunteers who volunteer 24 to 47 hours will receive 2 free volunteer t-shirts while all other volunteers will also get 2 shirts.

Some crews allow you to work during SXSW EDU and those hours count towards a non EDU badge.  Not all crews operate during EDU.

If you're working on the Music crew, you can earn a Music badge for 24-31 hours and returning volunteers can earn a Platinum for 32 or more hours.  Note that music crews must work all of their hours on music crews unless otherwise noted.

Full details on perks can be found on SXSW https://volunteer.sxsw.com/perks/
Full details on volunteer types can be found at https://volunteer.sxsw.com/volunteer-types-requirements/

2.  Signing Up

If you live within 70 miles of Austin, you're considered an in-town volunteer and will need to attend a volunteer call in person.
Volunteer Call #1, January 21st, 2018
Volunteer Call #2, January 27th, 2018
Both calls are located at the Austin Convention Center in Ballrooms ABC (on the Caesar Chavez side) from 3 PM to 5 PM.  These hours are for new volunteers and open enrollment.  Selected returning volunteers may be invited to earlier times.

If you live more than 70 miles from Austin, you can register as an out of town volunteer.
Out of town volunteers who register before January 5, 2018 will have the first crack at crews that accept out of town volunteers (not all crews take OOT).  Out of town volunteers who register after January 6th will basically be afforded opportunities from what crews have space left on or after February 12th so it pays to sign up early if possible.  More details can be found at https://volunteer.sxsw.com/out-of-town/

Either way, you'll need to preregister at https://volunteer.sxsw.com/register/ starting in mid-December, 2017.

3.  Choosing your Crews

First you have to decide whether you want to be an All-Conference or Music volunteer.  If you're not into music, then you'll probably choose All-Conference.
There are dozens of crews from drivers (must have DL of course) to banners (creation and distribution) to staffing information booths to managing lines at film venues to tech support at panels to setting up stages to helping volunteers... volunteer.  Most crews don't require specific skills but some do.  The photo crew has a whole separate recruiting department which can be found at https://sites.google.com/view/photocrew.

You can volunteer to be on one or two crews however some crews require you work all of your hours on that crew so be sure to read the requirements carefully.
I would read through all of the descriptions and choose something that you know how to do and something that interests you but be sure to have some backup ideas in case your first choice is full.

Full details on crews can be found at https://volunteer.sxsw.com/crews/

4.  Building your schedule

First and foremost, don't overstretch yourself.  Do you have a regular job?  Take some vacation time if you can!  Between working your volunteer shifts and actually enjoying the events, you probably won't have much time to sleep let alone work your regular job.

Make sure you know when the events are for the conference you want to attend: (these are the actual events, stuff you'll want to see, not work shifts)
SXSW EDU events take place March 5th-8th (mostly day but some at night)
SXSW Interactive events take place March 9th-13th (mostly day but some at night)
SXSW Film events take place March  9th-17th (day and night though world premieres and big events during the first 5 days)
SXSW Music events take place March 12th-18th (mostly at night but panels during days)

If at all possible, knock out some of your hours during SXSW EDU (however most EDU specific crews only operate during EDU so you must work all of your hours during EDU).  Not all crews have hours during EDU but if you can, it's a great time to do it.  Depending on your perk and interests, try to schedule your hours so you have some off days to enjoy events.  Unfortunately, you have to sign up for your hours long before the event schedules come out so it's a bit tricky.

If you're into film, then you'll want Friday the 9th off if you want to see the opening film at the Paramount.  Most world premieres occur from the 9th to the 13th so you'll want to keep the evenings free and save some hours for the end of the second week when things quiet down.

If you're mainly into music, then you'll want to get all of your hours in before Tuesday the 13th.
Interactive folks will want evening work or later work as Interactive events run from the 9th thru the 13th.  There's also SXSW Comedy and SXSW Gaming which are open to all badge holders and those crews are not all inclusive which means you'll need to work an additional crew to make badge hours.

Make sure you schedule enough hours for the perk you want.  While it is possible to upgrade to a Platinum badge during the event (returning volunteers only), the hours may not be available on the crews you've selected.  Most crews have multiple shifts each day and it is possible to work more than one per day, doubles or triples.  Some hours will actually overlap so you'll get some extra credit for doing doubles and triples but again, don't bite off more than you can handle.

You'll sign up for your hours at the Volunteer Call or through email if an Out of Town volunteer.  Once you sign up, check on your Shiftboard account to make sure the hours have registered and that you have enough for your perk.

5.  Working and Enjoying SXSW

By the time SXSW rolls around, schedules of events will be available both online and in the Austin Chronicle.  It's best to print out a schedule of your hours and create a loose schedule of events you'd like to attend.

If you're working during EDU, you can pick up your t-shirt and meal ID starting on the 5th.  If not earning an EDU badge, you won't be able to get the badge until the day before the conference starts.
If you're working during EDU, you'll get one EDU shirt in addition to your 2 shirts if working throughout the event.

DO NOT MISS YOUR SHIFT!  Okay, things happen, but if you do need to miss a shift, contact your crew immediately.  If you miss a shift, it's considered "flaking" and flaking is not cool!  You will be contacted to make up your shift and failure to make contact with your crew will mean that your badge will be deactivated until you make arrangements.  Yes, your badge has a unique RFID and QR code that can be disabled for failure to fulfill your obligations!  Failure to fulfill your hours can also disqualify you from volunteering again at future SXSW events so don't flake out!

Attending the events can be just as confusing as volunteering.  Back to the primary and secondary access which started in 2017, each conference (Film, Music and Interactive) now have primary access for the selected conference and secondary access to other events.  Platinum badges have primary access to all events.   Note that ALL events are subject to capacity.  Keynotes are the most popular and people line up hours ahead of time so there will be times when trying to get secondary access to an event may not be worth it.  You'll get a feel for it when you arrive at the event.  For films, you can download the SXSW app and view venue capacity status.  Also, you can stop by any Info Booth and use the computers to view status updates on venues.

Be careful to read venue locations carefully.  Again, events happen all over the downtown area and you don't want to be at Ballroom A in the wrong hotel or convention center.

When you're not working your volunteer shifts, do not wear your volunteer shirt.  This is because when you wear the shirt, you represent SXSW and its sponsors and people will probably ask you nonstop questions.  Also, some events, especially locations with alcohol or sponsor events will not allow people with volunteer shirts on to enter unless they're working at the location.

Also note that volunteer badges are not FULL ACCESS credentials and thus some events are not included.  These are mainly private sponsored events, lounges and registrant parties.  If you're denied entrance to an event, don't make a big fuss.  There are lots and lots of other events!

As SXSW progresses, make sure you always check in and out with your crew managers so your hours are logged.

The first year is always a learning curve for volunteers and attendees so don't be afraid to ask a veteran volunteer for tips and ideas to enjoy your time.  The time goes by FAST when it all ends, you'll either hate it or already be planning for next year.  Either way, it takes thousands of volunteers to make SXSW happen each year so you're doing a great thing by helping out!





The author assumes no responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in the content of this site. The information contained in this site is provided on an “as is” basis with no guarantees of completeness, accuracy, usefulness or timeliness.  
This site is not affiliated with SXSW.

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Visit my and subscribe to my youtube channel!

https://www.youtube.com/user/justanotherlabrat

Visit my ETSY shop!

https://www.etsy.com/shop/theTAILlor

All photos taken by Paul Clough.  

© All Rights Reserved.  Please contact for permission to use photos.