*** I added a video at the bottom! ***
Let me preface this article first with that I am by no means an expert! I got lost a few times but eventually found my way. I'm only writing this article as a tool to assist others in reaching the ice caves (though now melted). You can read my article about the ices caves here.
If you're on this page, it's likely you've heard about or seen some photos of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves. They're a sight to behold! But being made of ice, they do eventually melt which is the point of time we are at now. That said, it's still worth the effort to hike to the... guess we'll just call it the front of the glacier. For future reference, I'll refer to the ice caves as the glacier.
Getting to the trailhead:
I'm going to assume you can read a map but the main thing is getting on the Mendenhall Loop Road. As you may have guessed, this road is a giant loop and when viewed on a map, the turnoff is roughly at the top, a little northwest. You need to turn onto Montana Creek Road and follow it all the way to the end. It turns into Skaters Cabin Road so don't make any turns off of the road. Skaters Cabin Road dead ends at the West Glacier Trailhead.
There are bathrooms but no running water. The trail entrance is to the left of the bathrooms. About 100 feet in, you will find a trailhead board with information as well as a link to the USFS Map of the area. If you have a smartphone with internet service, I'd advise downloading some sort of tracking app so if you get lost, you can backtrack. There's also the 1910 cairn Marker which means at this point, the glacier was right where you're standing in 1910. There will be many of these throughout the area, mostly near the lake. A cairn is a marker made of rocks. Some are official with the ice limit makers while others are merely there to mark the route.
Hiking the trail:
The first 1.3 miles is fairly easy. A few inclines and towards the end, you have a few steep inclines that zig zag. There are cable hand rails but still be careful. You will eventually reach a fork. The sign below is located to the left of the trail.
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| West Glacier Trail/View Point Cairn Fork Mid June 2018 |
You have two options to get to the glacier.
The View Point Cairn Trail or the West Glacier Spur Trail.
Both has advantages and disadvantages. Looking at my GPS tracking log, they seem to be about the same length but the consensus is that the Cairn Trail is a bit shorter.
West Glacier Trail:
First off, the West Glacier Trail goes on for quite a ways. To the west of the glacier I'd imagine. I missed the turnoff to the spur trail. I'll come back to that in a minute. Because I missed the spur, I ended up going up and up. This however afforded me the nice view below.
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| Mendenhall Glacier from West Glacier Trail Mid June 2018 |
I was well into the "ribbon" section, I'll come back to that too, when I realized I was not on the spur trail so I back tracked. I remember there being an obvious marker and sign but this sign has since been removed. I was an idiot and forgot to take a photo but if you're using a GPS app, the spur should be about 2.1 miles from the trailhead. You'll reach a viewpoint with a large 5 foot high boulder on the left. The trail goes to the left and up but you'll notice a primitive trail that continues straight. This is the spur trail. There used to be a sign but it has been removed. You can see the 2 bolts that held the sign so you'll know you're at the right spot. From this point on, you're in the "ribbon" section. This trail is not official like the West Glacier Trail. This trail has been marked by guides and is fairly easy to navigate. There are these colored plastic ribbons that are usually tied to trees and branches. The next one is usually in sight of the last one unless the trail is pretty obvious but you shouldn't go more than 200 feet without seeing one.
From the fork, you'll be looking for 2 main landmarks. The large boulder which has a rope to help you up and down and the wood plank that crosses a creek. Provided you pass these, you're on the right track. From the plank, the trail gets a bit squirrely. A lot of large flat rocks. As you near the glacier, you'll have less vegetation until you reach the final embankment which is literally just a slope of loose rocks and gravel. At this point, the route ribbons will be tied to rocks on the ground. You will be at times sliding down so be very careful. When you arrive at the bottom, you'll notice another trail. That is the View Point Cairn Trail.
The Glacier:
The first thing you'll notice is that it's dirty. Nobody comes and cleans the damn glacier! Okay, that's mother nature for you. As I mentioned, the famed ice caves are no more. I have the photo below which was taken last year around late June and below that is the photo I took this trip, mid June 2018.
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| Mendenhall Ice Caves Late June 2017 |
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| Mendenhall Ice Caves Mid June 2018 |
You can explore the seam but be careful. What looks like openings are just small pockets. Are there caves in there? Maybe. New caves open from time to time. But for now, it's just a glacier.
It's my opinion that it's easier to take the West Glacier Trail Spur to the glacier and the View Point Cairn Trail back.
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| Mendenhall Glacier from the View Point Cairn Trail Mid June 2018 |
View Point Cairn Trail:
From the glacier, it's a bit shifty. Remember, this area was ALL under ice just a few years ago so little vegetation has grown. As you start gradually ascending, there will be a spur trail to the left that leads to the lake. This trail is mainly for kayakers and rafters who take the easy route. Stay to the right and follow the ribbons. You will pass many of the cairns (ice limit markers). Maybe you'll find one with your birth year. I did not. There's a few 20 to 30 foot rock inclines you need to navigate. Going back, you'll be going down. Going to the glacier, you'll be climbing. This route is a little more wet than the other route, at least this time around. All in all, this trail stays close to the lake and at one point you'll be at the lake. Then it goes up and up and up until you'll reach a USFS map sign like at the trailhead. Go to the right and you'll intercept the main trail, then turn left to head back to the trailhead.
Map of hike:
Summary:
Is this hike worth it without the ice caves? YES! Even without the ice caves, it's still a beautiful, ever-changing piece of history that will not be here forever. This is not a hike to do once but every time you visit Juneau. While thousands and thousands visit the visitors center and nugget falls each day, very few actually get close enough to touch the glacier.
Tips:
There are guides. If you got the money, take one. They also offer treks onto the glacier and when ice caves are available, into the caves. They provide all the necessary equipment.
If you are stupid like me and go your own way, make sure you have the following:
Fully charged smart phone, ideally with 4G service. Most cell phones do not have true GPS. They still need the internet to download maps. Download an app to track your route. I used MapMyHike.
Bring food and water. At least 1 gallon per person and snacks that are high in protein. Ideally, bring enough food for 2 meals. If you get lost or stuck overnight, you'll need that food and water.
First Aid kit is a must
Bear spray is ideal but it's one of those things most tourists won't have because it's just a pain. You can't take it on the plane so the likelihood you'll actually use it is low. Check with your hotel or hostel. They sometimes have loaners.
Layers of clothes, especially in the early and late seasons
Hard hat or helmet is good. Good for cave exploration but also good for avoiding hitting your head on low branches.
Gloves are great for grip and protection if you fall. If you fall, chances are you'll land on your hands so gloves will save you from road rash.
If you really want to get anal, you should have a paper map, a manual compass (or just a compass I guess), flash light, overnight survival gear, hiking boots and probably a few other things.
Pay attention! If you feel like you got off trail, especially in the ribbon section, STOP and backtrack to the last ribbon. Carefully look for the next one. Some are very small.
Plan on at least 6 hours for an out and back trip. It's roughly 3 miles each way.
Summary again:
I hope this guide helps you and you read it before you head out, not when you're on the trail. :)
Video:
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Video:
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All photos taken by Paul Clough.
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