Friday, June 30, 2017

Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves near Juneau Alaska

View of Mendenhall Glacier from the Mendenhall Campground
View of Mendenhall Glacier from the Mendenhall Campground
I was planning on hiking the West Glacier Trail but not necessarily to the ice caves which I did not even know about until someone at my campground mentioned it and asked if I would join her.  Since hiking in groups is greatly advisable, I was happy to have some company.  I made sure I had some food, water, bear spray and my camera. 

We walked to the West Glacier Trailhead which is accessed by Montana Creek road which will turn into Skaters Cabin road.  This is about a mile from the main road, Mendenhall Loop road.  The first mile or so is easy walking.  Then you do a little elevation gain with a few switchbacks and cable hand rails.  At around the second mile, you reach a fork with straight being the West Glacier and right being the View Point Trail, (this is not a "View Point" like I had thought, I'll come back to this later).  So we continued up the West Glacier Trail which started getting more mountainy and required some careful stepping and the occasional butt slides.  There was one steep rock face which had a knotted rope to help you up.

We were looking for the so called ice cave trail which we asked returning hikers about.  One said it didn't exist while two others said we were on the old ice cave trail with no access to the so called new caves.  But then we ran into a group that said this trail does in fact go to the ice caves.  So we continued on.  However, after about 3 hours, we got to some really steep and hard to navigate terrain and my hiking companion decided she did not want to go down something she couldn't get back up.  We were about a half hour away according to the last group we talked to.  So she was going to wait while I continued on.  From the point I left her, I crossed a creek by a plank made of two 2x4s.  From there, it was following these plastic tape like markers tied to trees or bushes.  I believe these we installed by the guided tours which I would HIGHLY recommend using! 

As I got closer, the air got much cooler as the glacier cools the air as much as 10 degrees within a mile.  Every so often, I could see the glacier, getting bigger and bigger.  By this point, it was mostly rock faces carved out by the receding ice.  Somewhere along the way, I lost track of the markers but I could see the glacier so against my better judgment, I continued on.  I did see some markers but they seemed to be loose and perhaps not in their original spots.  But at long last, I came to a very steep loose rock and gravel embankment which lead to the ice caves.  There wasn't any way down but straight down that I could see so I carefully slide down and made it to the shoreline.  So, getting there was not too difficult but the intended trail was not well marked in my opinion.  This could be for a variety of reasons.  I think the forest service doesn't necessarily want tons of people hiking there, especially without a guide.  As with any back country hiking (or any activity in a forest service area), it's at your own risk.

As for the ice caves, they were truly astounding.  I know some of my photos makes them look small but they are large.  Some of my pics have people in them to give you an ideal on how big it is.  As for going in, that is totally at your own risk.  I did see a guided group but they had all the necessary safety equipment.  But I kind figured if the ice caved in, a hard hat wasn't going to do much so again, against my better judgment, I walked through the largest cave which is more of a tunnel as it goes through to the backside of this portion of the glacier.  From the back side, you can see the other caves which had much lower ceilings.  The blue ice was just beautiful.  This is the product of hundreds of year's snow compacting into ice and is now melting away. 

If you do venture in, make sure there are other people around and you have a waterproof phone and or camera cover.  It's like a light drizzle inside all of the caves.  Looking at some of the ice has an otherworldly feel to it.  Like nothing you'll see anywhere else.  Again, I stress that these are ice caves and completely unpredictable.  They will be gone soon (several months to a few years?) but more caves will reveal themselves so it's an ever changing landscape.

After I took many photos, I chatted with someone about the trails and thought I was getting put back on the right track but there are apparently two trails.  I was hiking this other trail and soon realized I was not where I should be.  I needed to get back to where I left my hiking companion so I idiotically went off trail in hopes of intersecting the other trail.  This turned out to be fruitless and I spent an hour making no progress.  I ended up slipping and falling, road rashing my hand and elbow and decided I really needed some help.  I was in a lower point and realized I was near a landmark (receding ice timeline marker) so that would be at least some useful information if I needed to call the ranger.

I eventually saw another group and was able to meet up with them, explain my situation and they had a first aid kit to cover up my wounds.  They said we were on a sort of unofficial trail but basically the view point trail and recommended that I hike with them back to the trailhead and I could go from there.  This other trail was equally up and down terrain wise so there's definitely not an easy trail to the glacier.  When we returned to the fork, I recognized that I wasn't too far from the point I left and was ready to head back out when lo and behold, there she was coming down the trail.  This was of course a relief to all of us as it had been about three hours since we split up.  She just figured I was having a great time and started heading back.  It all worked out.  But I know made several stupid mistakes!

First and foremost, I should have got her phone number before we split up.  That was dumb.  Secondly, I should have had an actual topographical map of the area, not just a squiggly line that I screenshotted from an app which provided absolutely no detail.  I had rudimentary gps on my phone so I had a decent idea but that's still not a substitute for factual information.  Thirdly, I didn't have hiking boots on which definitely contributed to my fall.  And lastly, I continued on when I wasn't sure.  As soon as I lost the trail, I should have backtracked.  I was in the boy scouts so I knew better.

While this was an incredible experience, I would not do it again without an experienced guide or at the very least, kayaking across the lake as that puts you a quarter mile away with an easy to follow trail.  But this information changes as the ice continues to recede so again, go with someone who has been there recently. 


Along with pictures from the campground, the Mendenhall Visitors Center and Nugget Falls, I have seen the glacier from many viewpoints over six days and find the Mendenhall Glacier to be an absolute must visit if you come to Juneau.

About a quarter mile to the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
About a quarter mile to the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Looking down a rock a gravel embankment to the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves (lower center)
Looking down a rock a gravel embankment to the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves (lower center)

A closer view of the entrances to the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves (note the people)
A closer view of the entrances to the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves (note the people)

The main cave/tunnel at Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
The main cave/tunnel at Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Smaller opening at Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves (note the backpack and legs inside)
Smaller opening at Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves (note the backpack and legs inside)

Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves melting (way to wet to go into)
Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves melting (way to wet to go into)

Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves main opening (looks small from this angle but it's not!)
Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves main opening (looks small from this angle but it's not!)

Inside one of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
Inside one of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Inside one of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
Inside one of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

On top of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves (lots of loose rocks)
On top of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves (lots of loose rocks)

View from behind the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
View from behind the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

View from behind the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
View from behind the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Under the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
Under the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Under the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
Under the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Under the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
Under the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
Behind the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
Behind the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Close up view under the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
Close up view under the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

A chunk of ice at the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
A chunk of ice at the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
Another close up view under the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves (the color is right, this wasn't as aqua as other parts of the caves)
Another close up view under the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
(the color is right, this wasn't as aqua as other parts of the caves)
Better view of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves openings
Better view of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves openings



Wide view of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves openings
Wide view of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves openings

Hikers on top of Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
Hikers on top of Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Close up of hikers on top of Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
Close up of hikers on top of Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Wide view of the front of Mendenhall Glacier
Wide view of the front of Mendenhall Glacier

Close up of the crevices in the Mendenhall Glacier
Close up of the crevices in the Mendenhall Glacier 
Super zoom of crevice in Mendenhall Glacier
Super zoom of crevice in Mendenhall Glacier


Mendenhall Glacier Ice Limit Marker from 2002
Mendenhall Glacier Ice Limit Marker from 2002 (unfortunately the sign was facing the opposite direction of the glacier so it's hard to see how far away it was but it was maybe a third of a mile)

Pieces of ice from the Mendenhall Glacier floating in Mendenhall Lake
Pieces of ice from the Mendenhall Glacier floating in Mendenhall Lake

View of Mendenhall Glacier from the Visitors Center
View of Mendenhall Glacier from the Visitors Center

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All photos taken by Paul Clough.  
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