Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Anchorage Depot - Photo by Paul Clough

My first trip to Alaska was in October of 2015.  I'm not precisely sure what made me want to go up and visit.  Perhaps it was knowing a friend who went up for a few seasons on the fishing boats or maybe it was all of the TV shows about Alaska.  The trip was last minute and I pretty much planned it as I went along.  One thing I knew I had to do was ride the Alaska Railroad.  I love riding trains whether it be getting around town or going cross country.  While Amtrak doesn't necessarily scream the glory days of train travel, the Alaska Railroad makes riding the train fun again.  Grant it not every train can have gorgeous scenery from end to end or be featured on TV shows, it's just great to ride as many trains as I can.  

I ended up planning my train trip towards the end of my visit and flying out of Fairbanks.  
The Aurora Winter Train only runs during the off season from late September to mid May. 

The northbound train leaves Anchorage at 8:30 AM and arrives in Fairbanks at 8:00 PM on Saturdays.

The southbound train leaves Fairbanks at 8:00 AM and arrives in Anchorage at 8:30 PM on Sundays.   

There are select midweek trips  towards the end of winter.  What makes this train unique is that it incorporates the Hurricane Turn train which is a route within the route that the train travels.  Normally, the Hurricane Turn runs in the late spring to early fall and the Denali Star (the main tourist train) bypasses the stops made by the Hurricane Turn.  I'll cover more of that later.  Currently, the one-way fare from Anchorage to Fairbanks is $195 for ages 12 to 64 and $98 for children and people 65 and older.  Additional discounts are available so check their website for details. 

From what I saw, most people who started in Anchorage where either flying back to Anchorage or flying home from Fairbanks with only a handful planning on taking the return trip either the next day or the following week.  There were some Alaskans just commuting outside of the flag stops.  This is actually a good way to plan your trip.  Fly into Anchorage, take the train to Fairbanks and fly out.  Or you can do it in reverse.  

I arrived at the Anchorage train depot around 7 am by taxi.  There's little traffic at that time on Saturdays so don't get there too early as there's not much to do.  After checking in and dropping off my pack, I debated buying a sweatshirt which I passed on and regretted until my next trip to Alaska.  I did however buy the guidebook which has the highlights of the entire Alaska Railroad line and mile marker info.  There were about 40 people leaving and I heard less than a dozen coming back from Fairbanks but this train operates no matter what as it's a lifeline for some people living along the route.  There's a coffee kiosk but they weren't open the time I went so if you need your morning coffee, get it before you arrive or wait until you board.

The consist of most winter trains are considerably smaller than the summer trains.  Due to the nature of the train, they don't want to pull more weight than needed so most trains have 2 locomotives, a dining car, 2 Adventure Class (coach) cars and a baggage car.  They try to keep the through passengers in the car closest to the dining car and Hurricane Turn passengers in the car closest to the baggage car though depending on the loads, they can mix the cars.   Sorry, no dome cars or the famous Gold Star service or anything fancy on the winter train. Like all Alaska trains, there are no sleeping cars or private cabins.  Seating is assigned and if it's not busy, you should get your own row.  The seats are pretty standard like on Amtrak but no tray tables.  The windows are large but there can be glare for taking photographs through them. 

Once we we underway, it was only minutes before we were "out in the wilderness!"  Being early October, it was just about daylight and looking to be a very nice day.  

There's open windows in the vestibules in-between cars which allow glare-free photos and a breath of fresh air.  The temperature difference can be pretty wide between Anchorage and Fairbanks so have some extra layers available in your carry on.  Like most trains, you can walk around as much as you need although on this train, there's only three accessible cars.  The dining car has table service dining and there's also a quick service counter for snacks and beverages.  Alcohol is also available.  They do not accept cash on-board, only debit or credit cards.  You can purchase a meal voucher at the train station for cash before leaving.

Unlike the summer train (Denali Star which makes only a few stops), the winter train makes many stops.  The first stop is Wasilla, which contrary to popular belief, does not have a view of Russia.  It's a small town and the stop is fast.  The next stop is Talkeetna which is smaller but has more people using the train.  Talkeetna is where the Hurricane Turn portion of the route starts which means that the train makes "flag" stops.  Many people live along this portion of the route and the tracks are their only source of transportation so the railroad is like a road and they just stand out there and flag the train down.  To get off, they just say which mile marker they need off at.  This is also the case for deliveries.  Some folks have supplies delivered.  You'll see many of these people with lots of cargo and supplies.  The flag stop passengers usually ride in the rearmost car so they can access their baggage.  Talkeetna is also a large base for tourists who want to flight-see to Denali and hike and camp along the Hurricane Turn area.

We made several flag stops and rumor has it, a homesteader from the show Railroad Alaska was on the train.  Each flag stop was short, just long enough to offload the passengers and their luggage.  There are several official stops along the Hurricane Turn, mainly for backpacking and skiing. The pinnacle of the route is crossing the Hurricane Gulch Bridge in Hurricane Gulch Alaska.  The train stops for photo opps then continues towards Denali.  Speaking of stopping, the crew do a nice job of pointing out wildlife and stopping when possible. You have to have an eagle-eye to spot a bald eagle or a bear but they're out there!  If you're serious about trying to photograph some wildlife, you'll need a long-range lens, at least 300mm. 

What impressed me the most was the constant changing of the landscape.  People (including myself) were just clicking and clicking and before long, I was photo'd out.  But I just love watching the ever changing scenery go by.  Again, we ended up having a beautiful day but that will not always be the case.  Obviously, Alaska does get a lot of snow and the train runs pretty much no matter what so you'll never know what you'll see.  I heard the weekend before was snowy and completely cloudy so I was fortunate for the weather we had.

We made a quick stop in "Honolulu" Alaska which is just a cheeky sign but we were able to get off and some people had a snowball fight.  It was a nice break to get out and stretch. 

By late afternoon, we arrived at the Denali National Park station.  While the area is technically closed during the off season (all of the hotels are closed), you can get off if you have other arrangements as the actual park is open year-round.  Also, there are some staff who maintain the hotels during the off season and we had one get off.  Leaving the station gives you a great view of the resort village as its known before twisting and turning towards Healy.  At this point, I was pretty tired of taking photos and grabbed a beer from the dining car and watched the final rays of light shine down over the Tanana River in Nenana.  You'll get a lot of commentary from the conductor throughout the trip which can be a plus or a minus depending on how much you want to know.  But I found the tidbits interesting like the military base in Clear which is an early warning radar station.

We arrived in Fairbanks right on schedule.  It takes a few minutes to get your checked luggage so it's a good time to make sure your transportation is there.  I was staying at the Super 8 which occasionally has a shuttle but if no shuttle driver, they'll pay for a cab.  Most other hotels in town also provide shuttles to the train depot as well.  It's a long train ride but definitely relaxing if you're not in a hurry.  I still feel that riding the train at least once in Alaska is a must do.  It's not meant to be fast.  Please enjoy some of my photos below and plan your trip to Alaska!

   

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - My ticket to Alaskan Adventure! - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Passenger Car 210 - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Interior of Passenger Car 210 - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Watching the world go by - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Talkeetna - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Adventure Class - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Mountains and ponds - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Mountains and snow - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Cold Selfie - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Turing and Twisting through Alaska - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Honolulu... Alaska - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Mountains and Snow - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Hidden lakes - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - This is what comes to mind when I think ALASKA - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Denali National Park resort village - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Leaving the mountains behind - Photo by Paul Clough

Alaska Railroad - Aurora Winter Train - Nearing the Mears Memorial Bridge in Nenana - Photo by Paul Clough

Oh, an I made a video, pretty crummy quality but hey.

You can view full details and book your trip on Alaska Railroad's website.
https://www.alaskarailroad.com/ride-a-train/our-trains/aurora-winter


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All photos taken by Paul Clough.  

© All Rights Reserved.  Please contact for permission to use photos.

Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves near Juneau Alaska

View of Mendenhall Glacier from the Mendenhall Campground

I was planning on hiking the West Glacier Trail but not necessarily to the ice caves which I did not even know about until someone at my campground mentioned it and asked if I would join her.  Since hiking in groups is greatly advisable, I was happy to have some company.  I made sure I had some food, water, bear spray and my camera. 

We walked to the West Glacier Trailhead which is accessed by Montana Creek road which will turn into Skaters Cabin road.  This is about a mile from the main road, Mendenhall Loop road.  The first mile or so is easy walking.  Then you do a little elevation gain with a few switchbacks and cable hand rails.  At around the second mile, you reach a fork with straight being the West Glacier and right being the View Point Trail, (this is not a "View Point" like I had thought, I'll come back to this later).  So we continued up the West Glacier Trail which started getting more mountainy and required some careful stepping and the occasional butt slides.  There was one steep rock face which had a knotted rope to help you up.

We were looking for the so called ice cave trail which we asked returning hikers about.  One said it didn't exist while two others said we were on the old ice cave trail with no access to the so called new caves.  But then we ran into a group that said this trail does in fact go to the ice caves.  So we continued on.  However, after about 3 hours, we got to some really steep and hard to navigate terrain and my hiking companion decided she did not want to go down something she couldn't get back up.  We were about a half hour away according to the last group we talked to.  So she was going to wait while I continued on.  From the point I left her, I crossed a creek by a plank made of two 2x4s.  From there, it was following these plastic tape like markers tied to trees or bushes.  I believe these we installed by the guided tours which I would HIGHLY recommend using! 

As I got closer, the air got much cooler as the glacier cools the air as much as 10 degrees within a mile.  Every so often, I could see the glacier, getting bigger and bigger.  By this point, it was mostly rock faces carved out by the receding ice.  Somewhere along the way, I lost track of the markers but I could see the glacier so against my better judgment, I continued on.  I did see some markers but they seemed to be loose and perhaps not in their original spots.  But at long last, I came to a very steep loose rock and gravel embankment which lead to the ice caves.  There wasn't any way down but straight down that I could see so I carefully slide down and made it to the shoreline.  So, getting there was not too difficult but the intended trail was not well marked in my opinion.  This could be for a variety of reasons.  I think the forest service doesn't necessarily want tons of people hiking there, especially without a guide.  As with any back country hiking (or any activity in a forest service area), it's at your own risk.

As for the ice caves, they were truly astounding.  I know some of my photos makes them look small but they are large.  Some of my pics have people in them to give you an ideal on how big it is.  As for going in, that is totally at your own risk.  I did see a guided group but they had all the necessary safety equipment.  But I kind figured if the ice caved in, a hard hat wasn't going to do much so again, against my better judgment, I walked through the largest cave which is more of a tunnel as it goes through to the backside of this portion of the glacier.  From the back side, you can see the other caves which had much lower ceilings.  The blue ice was just beautiful.  This is the product of hundreds of year's snow compacting into ice and is now melting away. 

If you do venture in, make sure there are other people around and you have a waterproof phone and or camera cover.  It's like a light drizzle inside all of the caves.  Looking at some of the ice has an otherworldly feel to it.  Like nothing you'll see anywhere else.  Again, I stress that these are ice caves and completely unpredictable.  They will be gone soon (several months to a few years?) but more caves will reveal themselves so it's an ever changing landscape.

After I took many photos, I chatted with someone about the trails and thought I was getting put back on the right track but there are apparently two trails.  I was hiking this other trail and soon realized I was not where I should be.  I needed to get back to where I left my hiking companion so I idiotically went off trail in hopes of intersecting the other trail.  This turned out to be fruitless and I spent an hour making no progress.  I ended up slipping and falling, road rashing my hand and elbow and decided I really needed some help.  I was in a lower point and realized I was near a landmark (receding ice timeline marker) so that would be at least some useful information if I needed to call the ranger.

I eventually saw another group and was able to meet up with them, explain my situation and they had a first aid kit to cover up my wounds.  They said we were on a sort of unofficial trail but basically the view point trail and recommended that I hike with them back to the trailhead and I could go from there.  This other trail was equally up and down terrain wise so there's definitely not an easy trail to the glacier.  When we returned to the fork, I recognized that I wasn't too far from the point I left and was ready to head back out when lo and behold, there she was coming down the trail.  This was of course a relief to all of us as it had been about three hours since we split up.  She just figured I was having a great time and started heading back.  It all worked out.  But I know made several stupid mistakes!

First and foremost, I should have got her phone number before we split up.  That was dumb.  Secondly, I should have had an actual topographical map of the area, not just a squiggly line that I screenshotted from an app which provided absolutely no detail.  I had rudimentary gps on my phone so I had a decent idea but that's still not a substitute for factual information.  Thirdly, I didn't have hiking boots on which definitely contributed to my fall.  And lastly, I continued on when I wasn't sure.  As soon as I lost the trail, I should have backtracked.  I was in the boy scouts so I knew better.

While this was an incredible experience, I would not do it again without an experienced guide or at the very least, kayaking across the lake as that puts you a quarter mile away with an easy to follow trail.  But this information changes as the ice continues to recede so again, go with someone who has been there recently. 

Along with pictures from the campground, the Mendenhall Visitors Center and Nugget Falls, I have seen the glacier from many viewpoints over six days and find the Mendenhall Glacier to be an absolute must visit if you come to Juneau.

About a quarter mile to the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Looking down a rock a gravel embankment to the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves (lower center)

A closer view of the entrances to the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves (note the people)

The main cave/tunnel at Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Smaller opening at Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves (note the backpack and legs inside)

Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves melting (way to wet to go into)

Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves main opening (looks small from this angle but it's not!)

Inside one of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Inside one of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

On top of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves (lots of loose rocks)

View from behind the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

View from behind the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Under the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Under the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Under the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Behind the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Close up view under the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

A chunk of ice at the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Another close up view under the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves
(the color is right, this wasn't as aqua as other parts of the caves)

Better view of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves openings

Wide view of the Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves openings

Hikers on top of Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Close up of hikers on top of Mendenhall Glacier Ice Caves

Wide view of the front of Mendenhall Glacier

Close up of the crevices in the Mendenhall Glacier 

Super zoom of crevice in Mendenhall Glacier

Mendenhall Glacier Ice Limit Marker from 2002 (unfortunately the sign was facing the opposite direction of the glacier so it's hard to see how far away it was but it was maybe a third of a mile)

Pieces of ice from the Mendenhall Glacier floating in Mendenhall Lake

View of Mendenhall Glacier from the Visitors Center

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Visit my and subscribe to my youtube channel!

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All photos taken by Paul Clough.  

© All Rights Reserved.  Please contact for permission to use photos.