I took the famous but indispensible ferry system that links many of the remote communities along the Alaska coast.
I caught the ferry in Ketchikan after a week long stay.
Although cabins were available (I didn't price them but I'm sure they were out of my budget), I opted for the adventurous route which meant I was on my own for sleeping arrangements. On this vessel, there are two places you can sleep. The solarium which is outside but covered with heat lamps and in the recliner lounge. You could also pitch a tent albeit at your own risk on the deck next to the solarium. I chose the recliner lounger which was actually quite cold. Like most, I hit the floor between the seats since it wasn't too crowded on this trip.
My destination was Juneau and there are a few routes from Bellingham or Prince Rupert during the summer. I ferry I took came from Prince Rupert and was scheduled to stop in Wrangell, Petersburg, Kake and Sitka for a total travel time of 36 hours. From Ketchikan, there was a faster ferry that bypassed Sitka but since the price was the same, I went with the longer route as it allowed me to do some additional sightseeing and I wanted to see Sitka just to say I've been there. Plus ferries don't run at the same time every week so this particular routing got me to Juneau in the afternoon instead of 4 in the morning like some routes.
Most of the passengers had vehicles and or RV's and most of those opted for the cabins. It's quite fascinating watching the process of unloading and loading vehicles at each port. There was a 40 foot tour bus for the cruise ships, a large front loader, RV's from small to large and a few state vehicles as well as some cargo trailers. You can really see how many of the remote communities rely on the ferries to bring everything from supplies to equipment to vehicles.
On the Matanuska, there's a cafeteria which serves up three meals a day with a rotating menu. This is not reheated food! A full kitchen and staff cooks up classics as well as specials. There was a Reuben sandwich for a dollar so I had to roll the dice on that for a midnight snack. I also had a cheeseburger with fries which was quite good.. The prices overall were very reasonable and there was something for every budget. If you happen to not have a budget, you're allowed to bring your own food and there's a microwave and toasters for use free of charge. I brought a few things to stretch out my budget so it worked out nicely. And there's not tipping because all employees on board are state employees so a tip would be like a bribe and that's not allowed. They take cash and credit/debit.
If you're into photography, there's no better way to see Alaska than by ferry or cruise ship. You'll never know what you'll see. I saw many bald eagles, a whale and some some deer. Every trip is different. And then there's the ever changing landscapes. It's easy to get click happy and that can cause you to get photo'd out so pace yourself. Also, be sure to bring warm clothes if you plan on shooting out on the deck. It gets windy. Most people shoot outdoors to avoid the reflections and glare of the windows.
In case watching the scenery is not enough for your pleasure, there are TV's in the recliner lounge which show various movies and a documentary about the Alaska Marine Highway. There's a lounge that used to contain a bar but all of the bars were closed due to budget cuts so now it's just another lounge to sit in. Sort of the quiet room so to speak. You're able to walk around most areas of the ship so you could get exercise as well. You can also get off at ports and walk around. Just make sure you take your boarding pass and ID and get back a few minutes before departure. There was a three hour layover in Sitka so I took a short hike from the nearby trailhead... at 2 in the morning.
For people traveling without a cabin, there are public showers available. You can't use them in port but once underway, you can use them. Towels are available for rent but you can save a few bucks and bring your own. The water was surprisingly hot and good pressure. After a day on the water and the hike in Sitka, it was nice to have a hot shower.
Taking the ferry was on my bucket list and I'm glad I can cross it off. I would not hesitate to take the ferry again. June 2017
Alaska Airlines airplane taking off from Petersburg
Outside the Sitka Ferry terminal
American Flag on the back of the Matanuska
The Matanuska in port in Kake
The Matanuska in port at Petersburg
Scenic view of the bay near the Sitka ferry terminal
Outside the Ketchikan ferry terminal in Alaska
Bald eagle at Ketchikan ferry terminal
Pair of bald eagles along the Alaska Marine Highway Ferry route
The shuttered bar on the Matanuska which is now just a lounge
Enjoying the recliners on the Matanuska Alaska Marine Highway ferry
Coast Guard helicopter flyby
Deer on island in the middle of the inside passage. How did they get there?!
$11.75 dinner on the Matanuska consisting of a cheeseburger with fries, a Reuben sandwich which was on sale for a buck and a soda. Believe it or not, the Reuben was actually very good, well worth the gamble. The cheeseburger and fries were also great.
Enjoying the ever changing views on the Matanuska ferry
Ferry dock in Ketchikan, Alaska
Getting ready to take a hike near the ferry terminal in Sitka Alaska... at 2 AM
Microwave and toasters on the Matanuska are free of charge to use!
Public showers onboard the Matanuska
Ferry terminal in Sitka, Alaska. 5 AM
Vehicles waiting to board the Matanuska in Sitka
Vending machines aboard the Matanuska
Scenic views from the Matanuska
Scenic views from the Matanuska
Scenic views from the Matanuska
Scenic views from the Matanuska
RV being loaded onto Matanuska in Wrangell, Alaska
Site B29 at the Mendenhall Campground Backpacker Loop is towards the end of the loop. It seems to have an irregular tent pad compared to other sites. It is also fairly close proximity to site B28 but there's a little tree spacing. This site is nearest the water spigot so you may hear lots of foot traffic. This is in a low lying area so it can flood. There's typically pools of water near one or more sides so mosquitoes are more abundant.
Entrance to site B29 at Mendenhall Campground
View from tent pad of B29 at Mendenhall Campground
View of water on one side of B29 at Mendenhall Campground
Site B28 at the Mendenhall Campground Backpacker Loop is at the end of the loop. It's within direct sight of B27 so unless you're part of a group using both B27 and B28, it could be uncomfortable knowing B27 can look over at you all day. It's also very close to B29 but there's a tad more tree spacing. It's close to the river so the roar of the water could be a problem if the sound of water makes you pee.
Entrance to site B28 at Mendenhall Campground
View of B27 from B28 at Mendenhall Campground
View of main path from tent pad of B28 at Mendenhall Campground
View of water on one side of B28 at Mendenhall Campground
View from entrance to B28 at Mendenhall Campground
Site B27 at the Mendenhall Campground Backpacker Loop is at the end of the loop. It's within direct sight of B28 so unless you're part of a group using both B27 and B28, it could be uncomfortable knowing B28 can look over at you all day. It's close to the river so the roar of the water could be a problem if the sound of water makes you pee.
Entrance to site B27 at Mendenhall Campground
View towards B26 from B27 at Mendenhall Campground
View of river from B27 at Mendenhall Campground
View from tent pad of B27 at Mendenhall Campground
Site B26 at the Mendenhall Campground Backpacker Loop is towards the end of the loop. It's set back from the pathway so there's some privacy. It's close to the river so the roar of the water could be a problem if the sound of water makes you pee.
Entrance to site B26 at Mendenhall Campground
View from tent pad of B26 at Mendenhall Campground
Site B25 at the Mendenhall Campground Backpacker Loop is midway down the path. Traffic noise from the main road is minimal. You may occasionally hear the clanging of the trash bin lid. B25 is directly across from the restrooms so the clanging of the doors could be a problem. It is also open to the pathway which means anyone walking down the path can see into your site. B25 is also within site of B23 so your neighbor could see what you're doing somewhat. I spent 6 nights at this campsite and was fairly satisfied. I was pretty paranoid of bears so seeing people walk by every so often was pretty comporting as they would get mauled before me, theoretically.
Entrance to site B25 at Mendenhall Campground
View from tent pad of B25 at Mendenhall Campground
Site B24 at the Mendenhall Campground Backpacker Loop is close to the main road so the traffic noise could be bothersome. It is also next to the only trash bin in the area so the clanging of the lid could also be a concern. There's also an auto site behind but with some trees and spacing but a noisy group could bleed over. B24 is also near the restroom so the clanging doors could be an issue if crowded.
Entrance to site B24 at Mendenhall Campground
View from the tent pad of B24 at Mendenhall Campground
Site B23 at the Mendenhall Campground Backpacker Loop is nearest to the main road so the traffic noise could be bothersome. It is also across from the only trash bin in the area so the clanging of the lid could also be a concern. B23 is within sight of B25 so your neighbor can see what you're doing somewhat.
Entrance to site B23 at Mendenhall Campground
View of B23 from steps at Mendenhall Campground
View of neighboring site B25 from B23 at Mendenhall Campground
Picnic and fire ring at site B23 at Mendenhall Campground
The main entrance after you turn into the campground, about 750 feet from Montana Creek
Map of campground located at main entrance. Backpack loop is in red circle
The Mendenhall Campground located on the shores of the Mendenhall Lake provides a scenic view of the Mendenhall Glacier as well as the lake and surrounding Tongass National Forrest. Like most campgrounds, it's affordable compared to other lodging options. This page primarily covers the backpacker loop. All sites at this campground must be reserved and paid for in advance by visitinghttps://www.recreation.gov. You can view site availability and pay for your stay. There's a maximum of 14 nights per calendar year between Mendenhall Campground and Auk Village Campground. I spent 6 nights at site B25 in late June of 2017. It wasn't too crowded overall in the campground and usually only a couple other backpackers. One night I was the only one in the backpacker loop.
When you arrive, you go straight to your site. There's no check in. Rangers and or campground hosts do check the sites daily to ensure occupants have paid for their sites. You CANNOT pay in cash or otherwise arrive without prior reservations. Wood is not sold at the campground. You can buy it at most grocery, hardware and sporting goods stores. Occasionally people leave their spare wood in the wood sheds near the entrance or near the entrance to the backpacker loop but don't count on it as it goes fast when available.
Entrance to the backpacker loop
Close up of the sign leading to the backpacker loop
A proper campsite with fire
Camping essentials
Trash and wood shed located in the backpacker loop
Tent with rain tarp. It looks bad but worked fine.
There are 7 sites in the backpacker loop numbered B23 to B29. Each site provides a fire pit, a large wood picnic table and a tent pad.
There's a covered shelter/communal area located near the end of the loop. In times of rain, this is where most people in the backpacker loop will eat their meals. There's no fire ring so any food would have to be cooked on a camping stove (that you bring). There's two bear-proof storage boxes to share as well as a picnic table. It's near the water spigot and a short walk to the restrooms.
Covered communal shelter in the backpacker loop
Covered communal shelter in the backpacker loop
Bear-proof boxes in the covered communal shelter in the backpacker loop
The water spigot provides cold drinking water. It is located near the end of the loop on the right side of the shelter. There's also one at the entrance to the backpacker loop.
Water spigot in the backpacker loop
The restrooms are vault style which is just a fancy term for port-a-potty. But theses are nicer as they are permanent structures and quite roomy for changing clothes. There are no lights so when it's dark, you'll need a flashlight. Toilet paper is provided but like any good backpacker, it's always good to carry an emergency roll.
Restroom in the backpacker loop
Restroom in the backpacker loop
Unlike most USFS campgrounds, there are two shower houses, one near site 4 and one near site 46. Both sites also have flushing toilets and running water sinks. Men's have a urinal and a stall as well as two sinks while Woman's have two stalls and two sinks. Both showers have two stalls and adequate benches and hooks. All restrooms and showers are wheelchair accessible. The showers near site 46 are closet to the backpacker loop but were out of order on my visit (late June 2017). These showers and restrooms also have electrical outlets if you need to charge things. There are no electrical outlets in the backpacker or auto sites.
This is bear country! It's highly advisable to bring bear spray if you'll be spending a significant amount of time in Alaska.
If you don't have a vehicle, you'll need to store any food and products with scents like shampoo in a bear-proof container. Do not store them in your tent or leave out in the open. Campground hosts and rangers make daily rounds and will remove any items left unattended.
Like all USFS campgrounds unless otherwise posted, you can consume alcohol if you're 21 years of age but of course glass containers are frowned upon and drink in moderation. Although the usage of marijuana is legal in Alaska, the campgrounds and Tongass National Forrest are federal jurisdictions and as such follow federal regulations which means marijuana is not permitted.
Technically, even if you don't have a car, you can stay at an auto/tent site but all of these are along the main roads which will have less privacy as well as be noisier. The only advantage to booking an auto/tent site is more choices especially if all backpacking sites are booked.
Back in RV site at Mendenhall campground
Electrical hookup in the RV section at Mendenhall campground
Standard car site at the Mendenhall campground
Getting to and from the campground:
It's fairly easy to get to the campground if you don't have a car. Most people arrive by plane or ferry.
From the ferry terminal, it's a bit tricky as there are no buses that stop nearby. The nearest bus is about a mile and a half east of the terminal and there are no sidewalks or paths so you'll be walking on the shoulder. Not great. When you exit the terminal, the road is Glacier Highway. Walk east until you reach a traffic circle and turn left. You'll be on Mendenhall Loop. Cross the street and catch the route 4 on the UAA campus side of street. Get off at Mendenhall Loop and Montana Creek. It's about 3.5 miles so you could walk some more but that's up to you. Walking the whole way would be 5.1 miles. Even with the bus, you'll still be walking just over 2 miles. Of course, you can take Uber, Lyft or taxi.
From the airport, you could wait for the 5 or 6 express buses but you'll have to transfer at Nugget Mall. It's about a 10 minute walk to the mall. From the mall, look for the shelter with Valley on the top. Catch the 3 or 4. One goes clockwise and the other counter clockwise. The 4 would be a few minutes faster but I'd take whichever is next as they both run once an hour, making it every half hour. Again, you could also do the car share or taxi.
From the campground, I have posted a photo of the times below. Note that the buses do not operate on holidays and Sunday has reduced service. You can catch either the 3 or 4 as they both go downtown. Once they get to Nugget mall, they follow the same route. The nearest full service grocery store is Safeway but the way the bus runs, you have to get off about 2 or 3 blocks away. It's also a pain getting back to the bus if you have lots of stuff. You could also stay on the bus pass Nugget mall and go to Fred Meyer. This is probably the best option as they have a full service grocery store as well as home goods and camping supplies. If you want a full service outdoors shop, Sportsman's Warehouse at Nugget Mall is probably your best option. If you want to go downtown, you can transfer to the express bus 5 or 6 at Nugget mall and shave 20 minutes off the trip.
The bus fare is $2 each way and you can transfer between express and local. Just tell the next driver you transferred. It's old fashioned. Also, there are no day passes so if you'll be in town awhile and think you'll ride a lot, you might consider getting tokens from downtown library or Fred Meyer.
Also, if you plan on visiting the Mendenhall Visitor's center, it's about 4 miles or you can shave 2 miles off on the bus.
